Fear and different perspectives

Sunday, May 11, 2014
A few time ago I was talking with a friend about how we felt frustrated of always being scared in the water. I don't know how we ended up talking about this, but that made me feel good in a certain way. Just the act of sharing with each other our fears, made us feel less alone.

Yes, because the majority of us experiments fear while surfing. Sometimes we just don't admit it in front of others. Or we pretend we're super brave and don't care about huge mountains breaking on our head when we're stuck in the inside.
But there's nothing wrong in it. Knowing fear means our senses are awake and tell us not to understimate dangerous situations.
Surf is not easy. It takes strength, braveness and a bit of neverminded attitude. That doesn't mean we have to take any risk without being conscious of what we're about to do.

How to overcome fear?
I don't know yet. Someone once told we have to see things in a different perspective. That big foamy mountain in the end is just water, isn't it?
Yeah, probably. That doesn't make me stop panicking when I see one.

Bottom line: breathe. That's the only advice I can give. And take your time and then paddle that hell of a wave.
You'll have such a great washing-machine ("smashing-machine"?!) underneath the foam. But at the end you'll reach the surface and start breathing again. It wasn't that bad, right?

...At least before the next set comes and breaks on your head before you've paddled out.



Do you have any advice to overcome fear?



M.
5 comments on "Fear and different perspectives"
  1. Hehe just hade one of those days yesterday! Bailed on every single wave which resulted in that I didn't got one wave in 2 hours surf session! Stupid fear… :/

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  2. I listened to a talk one day about water safety & rips by a surfer called Tim Jones. One stat was that victims of rip drowning in Australia were 84.5% male compared to 15.5% female one year. He made an observation that women look after themselves more around the water. I thought this was interesting. When I mention "The Fear" to guys they look at me blankly. I think women have a stronger sense of self preservation.
    As I go for waves or head out back while getting hammered I repeat in my head "It'll be ok." Seems to work for 90% of the time!

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    1. Thank you for sharing! :) I personally think this can actually apply to different aspects in life, not just surfing. I think this is just female nature of preservation. That is also why girls are more scared when approaching to surfing rather than the guys. I realized we need a more "psychological training" before going into the waves, while the guys are more "physical". What do you think about? Did you notice the same thing?
      xx - Marta

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  3. When things are a bit scary I have to prepare myself mentally for the wave & choose carefully. I rarely get waves at the last minute. I think I over-think it & miss out on some good ones because I doubt myself.
    Over time I've opted out of wilder days because I know I'll paddle out & probably not go for anything at all & then get frustrated! Small & sweet keeps me smiling now. Not wild & scary! Maybe psychological training could help me break this habit.
    I've never heard a guy say they prefer small waves. Not out loud anyway!

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    1. Hi Suzanne! When things get a bit scarier I do the same as you! I think it is normal to over-think, but it is true that sometimes we should be brave and "jump into the blue" without thinking that much and just take it as it comes.
      With that being said, surfing should be meant to make us feel better. So if small and sweet waves make us smile, I say go for it and have the best time! :)

      ps: and guys will never say that out loud anyways ahahah

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