Enjoy the moment

Wednesday, June 18, 2014


When I first arrived here in Biarritz, I went surfing every day during the first months. I was tireless and improving fast. I did not even care so much about the tides (although consequently with some challenges out in the water).
Then time passed, and the excitement for the new vanished. I got a job and my spare time took the name of "weekend". Winter came, and surfing in freezing Atlantic water took more and more effort every day.

Ok ok I know, I'm not here to complain. I just realized I'm not improving as much as I thought I would have... And that's quite frustrating.

Coming from an Italian town far from the coast, I blame myself for taking the waves here for granted, now that I can surf whenever I like.
When surfing in Italy, you have to take advantage of all the little times you spend in the water. And during those moments you give all of yourself to the sea and have the time of your life, overcoming your limits, and trying to improve more and more.

Here in Biarritz, you know that perfect waves will be still there one way or another… You begin to focus just on the present time - you go in the water only if you're in the mood, you wait for the conditions that better suit your surfing, you let yourself have a bad day, and that would be ok.

You just enjoy the moment.

And yes, even if you feel like you're not improving your style as much as you expected, you're instead learning some other most important lessons.

Surf is not about being the best performer or paddler out there - surf is about you and the ocean, it's about the flowing water under your sliding board, it's about the sound of seagulls flying just upon your head, it's about the smell of salt. Surf is about opening your eyes and let it change you and the way you see the world.
Yes, it's good to feel the adrenaline of overcoming your limits while speeding through the wall of a wave. But sometimes you have to stop and figure out it is not about performance, it is about you.

Let yourself enjoy the moment, always.


Credits // Author: Marta Tomasini. Photography: Rebecca Sakko
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